In Siberia's northernmost reaches, high up in the Arctic
Circle, the changing temperature is thawing out the permafrost
to reveal the bones of prehistoric animals like mammoths, woolly
rhinos and lions that have been buried for thousands of years. Private collectors and scientific institutes will pay huge
sums for the right specimen, and bone-prospectors like Vatagin
have turned this region, eight time zones from Moscow, into a
paleontological Klondyke.
"Last year someone was paid 800,000 roubles (US$31,000) for a
mammoth head with two tusks in great condition," said Vatagin.
A brawny 45-year-old, he has a network of helpers: the
fishermen and reindeer-herders of the tiny Yukagir ethnic group,
whose numbers have dwindled to about 800 people.
"I must have earned the respect of the Yukagir," he said.
"Their shamans convened a council and decided to name me a
Yukagir," he added. He is now Yukagir No. 456.
These tribesmen are his 'finders', fanning out across the
vast emptiness of the tundra seeking valuable artefacts.
At regular intervals, Vatagin flies by helicopter to the
main Yukagir settlement, Andryushkino, some 200 km (125 miles)
west of the local centre of Chersky, to view the merchandise.
Prehistoric bones are not very hard to find. The permafrost
is thawing and breaking up so rapidly that in certain places in
the tundra, every few metres (yards) bones poke out through the
soil. Some just lie on the surface.
Vatagin pays between 200 (US$8) and 4,000 roubles (US$156) per
kg of mammoth bones. But it takes a keen eye and local knowledge
to find the really valuable stuff.
Tusks, sometimes curled round almost into a circle and
reaching up to 5 metres in length, are the most prized finds. A
pair of good tusks is a rarity; two tusks and a well-preserved
skull can be worth a fortune.
"If he is lucky, a local can earn 200,000 roubles (US$7,800)
in just one day," said Vatagin, who wears a massive silver ring
with a mammoth's head engraved into it. "To earn this money, he
would have otherwise have to toil for a year."
But for Vatagin it is not just about money. He himself dives
into the ice-cold local rivers to look for relics. The cash he
pays the Yukagir tribesmen gives them a living.
MAMMOTH RING
Many of the bones retrieved by Vatagin and his adopted tribe
end up at the Ice Age Museum in Moscow. The museum makes no
secret that scientific discovery goes hand-in-glove with
business interests.
Museum official Alexander Svalov has on one of his fingers a
ring identical to the one won worn by Vatagin in distant
Chersky.
The ring is the symbol of the National Alliance, a
close-knit business run by entrepreneur Fyodor Shidlovsky. The
company runs the museum, and holds government licences allowing
it to excavate and export prehistoric relics.
Svalov, who is the chief executive of National Alliance,
says a well-preserved tusk can sell to private collectors for up
to US$20,000, while a reconstructed mammoth skeleton can fetch
between US$150,000 and $250,000.
The bones make their way into museums in places like the
United States and South Korea. Now promising new markets are
opening up in emerging economies like China too.
"Developing nations are now displaying huge interest in
mammoths," says Svalov. "Their economies are growing, they have
cash and are starting to develop their museums."
GENTLER
Back in Chersky, Sergei Davydov, a 52-year-old scientist,
does not sell the bones he collects. He keeps them to study the
effects of climate change, but also because they fascinate him.
"This tooth has an unusual bump here. The mammoth suffered
from a terrible toothache. We can only imagine how he must have
roared," said Davydov, tenderly rubbing a black tooth the size
of a large shoe.
He displays his other finds: a mammoth's giant thigh bones